
Last week while I was fulminating about the overpriced sloppy reproduction of a Reuben at Bergstein's NY Deli, all I could think about was the Reuben served at the Vienna Beef Factory Store, the cafe and retail operation at the foot of the venerable meat processor's sprawling plant near the perpetually constipated intersection of Damen, Elston, and Fullerton. Is it the Platonic ideal of a Reuben?…
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