Eataly's Rosticceria, which slow roasts a different hunk of flesh every day, is an island of approachability in the stormy ocean of possibilities that the all-Italian superemporium offers. There's no need to wait for a table, no need to dither over choices—there's a single sandwich of the day and a daily prime rib sandwich—and if your only goal is get something and get the hell out, you can just tuck a sandwich under your arm, juke for the escalator and exit.…
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