Years ago I wrote about a street vendor in Irving Park plying an unusual snack—the torta de tamal, a dense pork tamale sandwiched in a bolillo that could occupy enough stomach space to fortify a day laborer in the Home Depot parking lot from dawn to dusk. Shortly thereafter the couple that was selling these carb powerloads vacated their corner and installed themselves in a tiny storefront a half block north on Kedzie that used to house a perpetually empty Filipino buffet.…
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