After Tony Hu, is there a more recognizable Chinatown celebrity than Liu Chang Ming? You may not know his name, but if you've strolled past Hing Kee in the mall over the last few years, you've probably seen him in action in the front window, his brawny, tatted forearms pulling, twisting, bouncing, and folding long, thick ropes of dough into dozens of strands of perfect, fresh noodles.…
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