This summer I smuggled a trove of salami procured from the great Quebec charcutiers Les Cochcon Tout Ronds over the Canadian border. You can't really sense it at their kiosk in the open-air Jean Talon Market in Montreal, but once you get a half dozen of these meat sticks in the car, it's like you enter another atmosphere, a heavenly, intoxicating biosphere redolent of meaty sweetness, spice, and funk.…
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