Oon, Matt Eversman's follow-up to Saigon Sisters, is ballsy but restrained.
by Mike Sula
When the siblings behind the French Market banh mi stall Saigon Sisters opened their full-service restaurant three years ago under Matt Eversman, I made a big deal of his youth and his audacity in tackling a cuisine—Vietnamese—he had little real-world experience with. When Eversman bolted from the West Loop restaurant (also named Saigon Sisters) a little more than six months later, announcing a new restaurant was on the way, nebulously categorized as "southeast Asian," it was difficult to decide whether to be excited or worried.…[ Read more ]