Earlier this spring when Lakeview's In-On Thai opened it occasioned few blips in the media, not nearly what I would expect given what the Hungry Hound reported a few months later: the chef, Korakot Vongsatit, was making curry pastes from scratch each morning. That's rather extraordinary for your average mom-and-pop Thai restaurant given how laborious it is to pound fibrous aromatics like lemongrass, galangal, and garlic with chiles and whole spices.…
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