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A hearty helping of irreverence—and pasta—at the Charlatan

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The folks behind Three Aces take over West Town Tavern. by Mike Sula There's a sign that hangs prominently above the kitchen window in the back of the Charlatan, the new West Town Italian joint from chef Matt Troost and his partners, who also operate the University Village Italian bar-food spot Three Aces. It says Che cazzo fai?—a common Italian curse idiomatically meaning "What the cock?," or, as an irritated American chef might say, "What the fuck are you doing?"…

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