I was right chuffed when I read the menu description for the ceviche mixto at Logan Square's aptly named Ceviche, a new Peruvian restaurant from the folks behind the well-established and well-liked Ay Ay Picante. Not only are the actual menus from Ay Ay Picante itself employed here, but the classic dish is said to be composed of a "variety of seafood and tilapia," as if the proprietors recognize that tofu with fins, as the Houston Chronicle once put it, doesn't really count as seafood.…
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