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Lao 18: It ain't Chinatown anymore

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Tony Hu's latest might be the best Chinese restaurant in River North, but it's the worst in his empire. by Mike Sula Usually when Tony Hu opens a restaurant it's an occasion to celebrate. Either the esteemed Mayor of Chinatown introduces a heretofore novel regional cuisine such as Shanghainese, Hunnanese or Beijingese, or takes old favorites and pushes them further, or expands the influence of his flagship Lao Sze Chuan by establishing bases in underserved neighborhoods.…

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