For all the restaurants I went to this spring and summer, I somehow failed to eat any soft-shell crabs, a situation I was certain would lead to some sort of eldritch curse, like my skin sloughing off and revealing a hard, plated carapace. Soft, juicy molted crabs only skitter around without their exoskeletons from about April to September, so when Lincoln Park's 33-year-old King Crab Tavern shed its own shell and moved to River West under the convoluted new name of Cy's King Crab Oyster Bar & Grill, I took my chance before it was too late.…
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