Fire-roasted hunks of meat are the centerpiece at Tony Mantuano and John Hogan's River Roast, but stick with the smaller plates if you don't want to get burned.
by Mike Sula
Many new restaurants, it seems, are in the thrall of the primal visual appeal of combustion. Places like Dusek's and the recently reviewed Promontory, to name two, feature prominently placed open blazes in their dining rooms and flames applied directly to plenty of dishes, not to mention the indirect application that, for better or worse, ends up saturating much of the food.…[ Read more ]