For all the proliferation of ostensible fish shacks in recent times (across the spectrum, from G.T. Fish and Oyster to Fish Bar to Parson's) there really hasn't been anything to address the very practical concerns of day-to-day eaters; that is, some place inexpensive, convenient, and healthful (rather than indulgent). That's why, on paper, the Brown Bag Seafood Company looks so good.…
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