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Playing it safe at Mott St

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At Mott St, the folks behind Ruxbin try their hand at Asian street food. by Mike Sula I think I know where Edward Kim is going with the mentaiko kimchi udon he's serving at Mott St, the pan-Asian-street-food/night-market-inspired restaurant that's his follow-up to the celebrated and more straightforward Ruxbin. In Japan there's a current culinary trend called itameshi, essentially a Japanese take on Italian food that might produce, say, a tangle of spaghetti tossed with fish eggs, seaweed, and soy sauce.…

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