There's no kind of restaurant in which self-regard outmatches ability as consistently as the barbecue restaurant. I'm at my wit's burnt end with the plague of lousy smoked meat that's swept the city in the last year and a half, but part of what makes it so galling is the tedious Kountry Kitsch these places drape themselves in and the attendant boastfulness about their associated pitmasters.…
[ Read more ]