About five and a half years ago I took a survey of the city's Chinese-Korean restaurants—spots that specialize in a very particular style of Chinese food adapted to Korean tastes. What was, and continues to be, remarkable about places like Chang's, Great Sea, VIP Restaurant, New Peking, and Great Beijing, is that they all traffic in long, fresh house-made wheat noodles used in various iterations of ja jiang mian, in which they're tossed in an inky, earthy black bean sauce, or jampong, deep, spicy bowls of seafood soup.…
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