I've been remiss in failing to report on the great leap forward in the state of the dumpling in this town, which has come thanks to the wang mandoo stand outside Joong Boo Market* in Avondale. Wang mandoo (aka mandu), or king dumplings, are a ubiquitous street food in South Korea, though they're a specialty of the North Korean province of Hwanghae, and are probably descended from Chinese baozi. You know about those: steamed (rather than boiled or fried) clouds of white puffy dough encasing some sort of sweet or savory filling.…
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