About three and a half years ago, when I reviewed Tony Hu's weird, loungy, neon-lit, "NeoChinese"Lao Yu Ju, dim sum wasn't in the picture. But a few years later, with the advent of sparkling, cavernous Cantonese palaces like Cai and MingHin, he expanded the space and brought in chef Wei Zhou and about 60 different dishes, including the usual suspects like xiao long bao, shu mai, and lo bak ko.…
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